Jenkins, who describes her food as New American with a Tuscan flair, passes on the venison, picks up quince and heads to the Ronneybrook farm stand for butter to make a quince tart. "They keep saying it’s the last of the quince, but then they show up with more." But it can’t last. What will the chef do when it all runs out?
"Well," she says, "one of my thoughts is to drive up to Fairway."