"They know every president, every king," sighs their father. "They have much more opportunity than I did."
Still, his Le Cirque is "20 years young," as the announcement has it, and Sirio isn't afraid of going out of fashion.
"I try to create a beautiful place at a reasonable price," he says, "like Le Bernardin, Lutece, La Grenouille...there are people who go to France and say, 'This is paradise.' Well, we have brought paradise to New York."