“Increasingly women at the top of our profession seem to operate with a much more relaxed dress code,” says Gluck, taking a rare moment to relax in her office. “Often when we take clients into meetings, I have to explain who is in charge.”
A sleeker version of casual Friday now informs every day of the week. “Somebody who’s just coming in here with an Eddie Bauer pocket T-shirt and running shorts is not going to work out,” Gluck explains. “The casual look has to be filtered through a fashion lens, but obviously there is a casual-chic aesthetic that is being promoted by virtually all the designers.”
Powerful women within the industry, such as Sherry Lansing, Amy Pascal, MTV’s Judy McGrath, Amanda “Binky” Urban and ICM co-president Nancy Josephson, led the way, and now women hold positions in the upper echelons at every agency, from Endeavor to UTA and CAA to Brillstein-Grey. While the new generation of female agents is as serious minded as their pioneering predecessors — with Gluck and Walsh representing heavy hitters like Suzan-Lori Parks and James Patterson, and making way for bestsellers like “The Sisterhood of the Travelling Pants” — their look is much less severe.
“Through the Eighties and well into the Nineties, the ethos was, ‘be less visible than the client,’” explains Gluck. The writers and actors these agents serve, however, were more comfortable dealing with individuals than drones. “They don’t want to be cookie-cutter talent, and they don’t want cookie-cutter representation.”
Now the classic agency rule banning jeans is as archaic as the mimeograph, and fun fashion is making headway with agents like Walsh, who loves to shop at Gucci. And these women are not willing to ditch personal style in the name of corporate success.