Chocolate purist Holger in’t Veld, author of the book “Chocolate Rebels,” which reveals the ugly side of the global cocoa business, could have been bitter about the closing of his namesake Berlin chocolate shops in 2010. Instead, he got creative.
His new venture is Bitterveld, a combination cafe and shop that offers a lesson in cocoa culture and crafted cuisine, with an accent on fair trade, organic ingredients and innovation. Salmon is marinated in chocolate and lime, veal and pasta are matched with apricot and fennel. A mint and pea risotto is strewn with smoked Scamorza cheese (about 6 to 14 euros, or $7.50 to $17.50), and the frozen tomato starter melds gazpacho and granita (3 euros, or $3.75). A smooth and not overly sweet demi-tasse of hot chocolate made with water is a revelation, and a good replacement for espresso — morning or night (3 euros, or $3.75).
There’s also a mini-section of takeaway sweets, offering international fair trade chocolate, artisanal Swedish licorice, and of course Bitterveld’s own blended bars, including Fruchtziege, which includes goat milk powder, blood orange essence and a pinch of salt, and Peffernuss, which combines walnut nougat and Tellicherry peppercorns.
3 Lettestrasse, 10437
Web: bitterveld.de; firstname.lastname@example.org
Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m, Thursday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.