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AT JOURNEY’S END
Finding the Long March Canteen might feel like a trek or even a trick — the dim sum spot is somewhat hidden behind its playful exterior, including a faux-barricaded door, wild graffiti, and, currently, scaffolding. But inside, the food doesn’t mess around. This sister restaurant to dumpling spot Yumcha Heroes offers some of the same dishes, but adds the mix-and-match fun of choosing cold dishes a la carte — and from a cart. Friendly wait-staff wheel an array of small plates, including succulent seared tuna with red beets and edamame, honey-glazed spare ribs, silken tofu with thousand-year-old eggs and preserved vegetables and jellyfish carpaccio. Cold dishes run 5 to 9.50 euros, or about $6 to $12.
Warm dishes supplement the cart’s instant gratifications — crispy tofu with salt, chili, garlic and Thai basil, grilled baby squid, pork belly with baby asparagus and Peking duck. Hot dishes range from 6 to 15 euros, or about $7.50 to $19. Dumplings are available baked, steamed, or in soup, in a wide variety of fillings — meat, fish, and vegetable (4.50 to 7 euros, or about $6 to $9). Finish the meal with a chocolate version dressed with cinnamon and vanilla sauce (5.50 euros, or about $7).
The interior, designed by Ett la Benn — the team behind many of Berlin’s best-dressed restaurants — plays with Sino-kitsch, but the open ceilings, family-style long tables, industrial lamps and chopstick dispensers keep everything on track.
Long March Canteen
20 Wrangelstrasse, 10997 (Kreuzberg)
Web: longmarchcanteen.com; firstname.lastname@example.org
Hours: Daily, 6 p.m. to midnight