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Paris Preview: The Scene

Take time out from the shows to see what’s new in the City of Light. Here, a smattering of recent findings.

lifestyle/news

Take time out from the shows to see what’s new in the City of Light. Here’s a smattering of recent findings.

RETAIL ARTISTRY: Among the novelties on the Paris retail scene this season is the first store from knitwear specialist Maison Ullens, which carries luxury essentials for world travelers. The store design by Rem Koolhaas’ architectural firm OMA is minimal but luxurious, with features including creamy white leather walls, shiny bronze accents and a back wall made of ivory-colored onyx. The private salon features a rotating selection of works by artists including Anish Kapoor.

Meanwhile, Paris-based men’s wear designer Woo Youngmi has opened the first French flagship for her Wooyoungmi label in the fast-evolving Haut Marais district. The art gallery-inspired space is designed by Abstrakt Architecture and carries ready-to-wear, suits, bags, shoes and accessories displayed against crisp frames, vitrines and marble units.

Fans of Francesco Russo’s architectural footwear for Dior will be able to shop his namesake line at his first boutique in Paris, set to open during couture week. The store design by Federico Masotto is inspired by an artist’s studio, with 18th-century parquet floors, classic toile curtains and midcentury furniture. Shoes will be displayed on blocks of rough fir wood topped with metal plates.

 

— Joelle Diderich

Maison Ullens
4 Rue de Marignan, 75008
Tel.: +33-1-47-20-23-56
Open Mon. to Sat., 10  a.m. to 7 p.m.

 
Wooyoungmi
5 Rue Saint-Claude, 75003
Tel.: +33-1-42-77-85-68
Open Mon. to Sat., 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.


Francesco Russo
8 Rue de Valois, 75001
Tel.: +33-1-49-27-97-03
Open Tue. to Sat., 10  a.m. to 7 p.m.



NEXT: Surreal Deal >>


RELATED CONTENT: Men's Fall Collections 2014 >>


Paris Scene Elsa Schiaparelli Horst P Horst

SURREAL DEAL: To coincide with the relaunch of the dormant house of Schiaparelli this season, Christie’s Paris will host an auction of Elsa Schiaparelli’s personal effects on Jan. 23.


“The Personal Collection of Elsa Schiaparelli” features 190 lots put on sale by the legendary designer’s granddaughter, the actress and model Marisa Berenson. They include Schiaparelli’s own designs alongside personal pieces such as photographs of Schiaparelli by Man Ray and Horst P. Horst and a trio of Aubusson tapestries.


To mark the event, Berenson will be joined by Hubert de Givenchy for a roundtable discussion on Jan. 21 on the theme of “Elsa Schiaparelli: Myth and Reality.”

 

— Joelle Diderich


“The Personal Collection of Elsa Schiaparelli”
Christie’s Paris
9 Avenue Matignon, 75008
Tel.: +33-1-40-76-85-85
Viewing times: Jan. 18, 20, 21 and 22, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Auction on Jan. 23 at 5 p.m.

 

NEXT: Green Machine >>


GREEN MACHINE: The first lifestyle salon in France from plant-based Aveda recently made its debut on Paris’ Right Bank. It’s a venture with hairstylist Emmanuel Montecino, whose long-standing salon already specialized in ayurvedic massage.


“It was an obvious association,” he said, of the link with the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.-owned brand.


The 3,333-square-foot location offers a full range of services, for hair, face and body, and boasts three treatment cabins. Hair coloring starts at 60 euros, or $82 at current exchange, while a manicure is 35 euros, or $48. The hour-long hot-oil Indian massage goes for 85 euros, or $116, as does the 60-minute facial.

 

— Jennifer Weil


Salon Spa Lifestyle Montecino
7 Rue du Louvre, 75001
Tel.: +33-1-40-26-18-07
Open Tues. to Sat.,
10 a.m. to 8 p.m.

 

NEXT: Double Shot >>


DOUBLE SHOT: Fans of Café Kitsuné no longer have to travel to Tokyo to enjoy its signature blend of coffee, music and fashion. Nestled within the Palais Royal, the second café designed by Maison Kitsuné founders Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki combines minimal design with the atmosphere of a quirky European café. The tiny stand-up coffee bar offers a selection of accessories and Kitsuné music compilations, alongside coffee, tea, juices and gluten-free pastries and cakes from Noglu.

— Joelle Diderich


Café Kitsuné Paris
51 Galerie Montpensier, 75001
Tel.: +33-1-40-15-62-31
Open Mon. to Sat., 8:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.


NEXT: Multisensorial Nosh >>


MULTISENSORIAL NOSH: Guy Martin, the chef who masterminds the Cristal Room at the Maison Baccarat and Le Grand Véfour, now also oversees the kitchen of Le 68 that’s in the renovated Guerlain flagship on Paris’ Avenue des Champs-Élysées. Its entrance is at the back, accessible via stairs leading down to a space also offering a selection of pastries and teas.


“The kitchen is Guy’s place; I don’t put my nose in it,” quipped Guerlain perfumer Thierry Wasser. However, Martin has used certain ingredients found in Guerlain fragrances, such as rose and tonka bean, to inspire some of the dishes on the menu.


Wasser said he’s fond of the king prawns with saffron foam and charlotte risotto, and cod in Little Black Dress — liquorish with tender parsnips — whose name refers to one of Guerlain’s best-selling scents. For dessert, there is the macaron des Jardins de Shalimar with clementine and bergamot. “Shalimar is known to be an oriental perfume, but Guy has detected the citrus notes in it,” Wasser added.

 

— Laure Guilbault


Le 68 Guy Martin
68 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008
Tel.: +33-1-45-62-54-10 or contact@le68guymartin.com
Open daily from 8 a.m. through dinner


NEXT: Hot Table >>


HOT TABLE: Less than a month after the talented young chef David Toutain quietly opened a restaurant under his own name, it’s already one of the hardest gets in town.


The cozy 32-seat space is warm, sparse and relaxed, with Toutain-designed wooden tables and funky porcelain plates that morph with every course. Here, humble vegetables get couture treatment, and although the small-plate menu changes frequently, it reliably includes talking points like Toutain’s signature smoked eel croque-monsieur and scene stealers such as a single poached oyster swaddled in yuzu-kiwi sauce, cuttlefish with fresh hazelnuts, parmesan and dashi yuba or vegetables like cauliflower or Jerusalem artichokes rendered as dessert.

 

Four set menus, with or without wine pairings, range from the three-dish Berce lunch to the dozen or so dishes in Reine des Pres. The lunch menu is 42 euros ($57 at current exchange) while dinner menus are 68 and 98 euros ($93 and $134), and wine-pairing menus are 50 euros to 60 euros ($68 to $82) more. Reservations are essential, but the table for six on the main floor is first-come, first-served.

 

— Tina Isaac


Restaurant David Toutain
29 Rue Surcouf, 75007
Tel.: +33-1-45-50-11-10 or reservations@davidtoutain.com
Open Mon. to Fri., noon to 2:30 p.m. and 8 to 10 p.m.


NEXT: Oyster Craze >>


OYSTER CRAZE: Another hot spot is Clamato, Bertrand Grébaut’s new restaurant. The chef who won rave reviews for his bistro Septime (where Beyoncé and Jay-Z have been guests) has come this time with a seafood joint (including oyster bar) — the latest craze in town.

— Laure Guilbault


Clamato
80 Rue de Charonne, 75011
Tel.: +33-1-43-72-74-53
Open Wed. to Fri. evenings; all day Sat. and Sun.
Reservations not accepted.


NEXT: Taking Stock >>


TAKING STOCK: Yannick Alléno, chef of the 1947 restaurant in the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned Cheval Blanc hotel in Courchevel, has opened a second location in Paris called Terroir Parisien. It’s inside Palais Brongniart, the building that once housed the Paris bourse. The menu includes traditional French fare and there is a “rillette bar,” where Parisians gather after work to nibble on pâté and seasoned meats.

— Laure Guilbault


Terroir Parisien Palais Brongniart
28 Place de la Bourse, 75002
Tel.: +33-1-83-92-20-30
Open Mon. to Sat., for lunch and dinner
Reservations at reservation-bourse@terroirparisien.fr


NEXT: Department Store Fare >>


DEPARTMENT-STORE FARE: As part of Le Bon Marché’s gourmet food hall’s major facelift, the department store opened a restaurant called La Table on its first floor. Here, the chef uses products he selects from La Grande Epicerie downstairs. The restaurant is bright, located under a glass-covered roof, and the fare is reasonably priced and light.

— Laure Guilbault


La Table de la Grande Epicerie
38 Rue de Sèvres, 75007
Open Mon. to Sat., 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Reservations not accepted.


NEXT: Dixon's Paris Debut >>


DIXON’S PARIS DEBUT: British design star Tom Dixon has opened his first restaurant in the French capital. Called Eclectic, this latest project by Fabienne and Philippe Amzalak (the duo behind the Philippe Starck projects Le Bon and Ma Cocotte) anchors the newly revamped Beaugrenelle shopping center in the 15th arrondissement.


Designed to “bridge Parisian chic and English eccentricity,” the restaurant makes a modernist bid for the traditional brasserie, with a Seventies-inflected mix of texture, brass and hexagonal motifs.

On the menu: contemporary renditions of French and international favorites, from homemade foie gras to fish and chips and “Tom Dixon calf’s liver” (about 35 euros, or $47, per person, excluding wine).


— Tina Isaac

 

Eclectic
2 Rue Linois, 75015
Tel.: +33-1-77-36-70-00 or info@restauranteclectic.fr
Open daily 8 a.m. to midnight.


NEXT: New York-Paris >>


NEW YORK-PARIS: After opening Buvette, serving French cuisine in New York’s West Village, two years ago, Brooklyn chef Jody Williams this fall introduced Buvette to the buzzing Paris neighborhood of SoPi (short for South of Pigalle). Parisian hipsters and expats flock there on weekends for brunch or to eat the American chef’s signature croque-monsieur.

— Laure Guilbault


Buvette
28 Rue Henri Monnier, 75009
Tel.: +33-1-44-63-41-71
Open Tues. to Sun., 10 a.m. to midnight.
Reservations not accepted.


NEXT: YSL's Set >>


YSL’S SET: An exhibition of photos taken from the Yves Saint Laurent biopic by Jalil Lespert is on display at The Westin Paris-Vendôme hotel. They include some of the most gripping scenes from the film: Some photos document the historical re-creation of the designer’s show for his Opéra Ballets Russes collection in 1976, which took place in the hotel’s Salon Impérial, for instance. The images will be on display until Jan. 31.

— Laure Guilbault

 

The Westin Paris-Vendôme
3 Rue de Castiglione, 75001
Tel.: +33-1-44-77-11-11


NEXT: Fit as a Fiddle >>


FIT AS A FIDDLE: For those looking to tone up during fashion season, 50 Foch is a recent addition to the Paris gym scene. Its sprawling, 5,555-square-foot, three-level space was inaugurated in July and boasts state-of-the art equipment plus top-notch trainers. Abdoulaye Fadiga, a world champion of Thai boxing, started the club and staffed it with 29 national and 16 international sport champions. Private lessons are available as are group classes for gym members.


It’s possible to sign up for a day (at 50 euros, or $68 at current exchange), for a week (at 350 euros, or $479), quarterly (at 960 euros, or $1,314) and annually (at 1,980 euros, or $2,709).


— Jennifer Weil


50 Foch
50 Avenue Foch, 75116
Tel.: +33-1-45-02-10-55
Open Mon. to Fri., 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.; weekends, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.


NEXT: Showtime >>

RELATED CONTENT: Men's Fall Collections 2014 >>

SHOWTIME: It’s a rich season for art in Paris. The Musée d’Art Moderne’s “Decorum” exhibition focuses on the art of textiles, culling more than 100 rugs and other woven creations by modern and contemporary artists.


Also à la mode is photography, as three shows attest. Swedish photographer Anders Petersen has his personal world on display for the first time in Paris through more than 300 black-and-white images of street scenes and portraits.


The Cartier foundation is presenting a survey of Latin American photography, focusing on the relationship between text and image through the work of 72 artists from 11 countries.


Finally, color is the subject of a show at the Grand Palais, which offers highlights of Raymond Depardon’s reporting career from the late Fifties until today.


The Centre Pompidou is exhibiting the Guerlain Donation, involving works on paper spanning creations from anonymous painters to bigger names like Richard Prince. Up two floors, “Surrealism and the Object” has rooms devoted to key figures in the artistic movement, including Joan Miró and Alberto Giacometti.


A few days remain to see the Musée du Luxembourg’s latest exhibition, “The Renaissance and Dream,” which comprises works by Hieronymus Bosch, Paolo Veronese and Albrecht Dürer, among others.

 

— Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant


“Decorum. Carpets and Tapestries by Artists,” to Feb. 9
Musée d’Art Moderne
11 Avenue du Président Wilson, 75116
Tel.: +33-1-53-67-40-00
Open Tues. to Sun., 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Thurs., 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.


“Anders Petersen [Photographs],” to Feb. 2
Bibliothèque Nationale de France Richelieu
5 Rue Vivienne, 75002
Tel.: +33-1-53-79-49-49
Open Tues. to Sat., 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Sun., noon to 7 p.m.

“América Latina 1960-2013,” to April 6
Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain, 261 Boulevard Raspail, 75014
Tel.:+33-1-42-18-56-67
Open Tues. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Wed. to Sun., 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

“Raymond Depardon: A Sweet Moment,” to Feb. 10
Grand Palais, Galerie sud-est,
Avenue Winston Churchill, 75008
Tel.: +33-1-44-13-17-17
Open Wed., 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Thurs. to Mon., 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.

“Donation Florence et Daniel Guerlain,” to March 31
Centre Pompidou
Place Georges Pompidou, 75004
Tel.: +33-1-44-78-12-33
Open Wed. to Mon., 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

“Le Surréalisme et l’objet,” to March 3
Centre Pompidou
Place Georges Pompidou, 75004
Tel.: +33-1-44-78-12-33
Open Wed. to Mon., 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

“The Renaissance and Dreams. Bosch, Veronese, El Greco…,” to Jan. 26
Musée du Luxembourg
19 Rue Vaugirard, 75006
Tel.: +33-1-40-13-62-00
Open Mon. and Fri., 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Other days, 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.