Paris Preview: The Scene

The city is percolating this fall, with new art exhibitions and eateries galore. The shop scene is heating up, too.

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The interior of Lazare.

Photo By Alain Gelberger

Inside Encore.

Photo By Dominique Maître

The 31-seat Relais Boccador.

Photo By Courtesy Photo

A MOVEABLE FEAST: Paris has plenty of hot spots to quell the hunger pangs between and after the shows. Eric Fréchon, chef of the Hotel Bristol’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant and of the Mini Palais — a fashion crowd favorite inside the Grand Palais after Chanel shows — this month opened a venue in Paris’ Saint-Lazare train station, called Lazare.

Here, he serves classic and French food, like steak à cheval, the Gallic answer to burgers, and coquillettes, which are French-style macaroni and cheese. (However this version has truffles — it is Fréchon, after all.)

With his Paris-Deauville light soufflé dessert filled with caramel, Fréchon pays tribute to the seaside Normandy town that a Saint-Lazare train route serves.

It is uncommon for a Parisian building to have a flat roof. So when Adrien Boissaye and Christophe Talon found a 4,000-square-foot level rooftop overlooking Paris, they started dreaming. Two years and a lot of paperwork later, they opened Le Perchoir (“Hen Roost”). Over the summer, it became a favorite destination of hip Parisians, who line up to sip a mojito or glass of rosé while admiring the view over the Sacré Coeur.

The owners intend to keep the rooftop bar open all winter, providing blankets and heaters. There is also a Le Perchoir restaurant inside, on the building’s upper floor.

Encore is joining the list of hot restaurants on the Rue Richer. Japanese chef Yoshi Morie cooks up seasonal fare there, such as tender pig and roasted root vegetables and fig compote for dessert. Ingredients come from suppliers such as Hugo Desnoyer, the Michelin brigade butcher, and Du Pain et des Idées for the Pain des Amis country loaves. The restaurant seats 25 and has bare decor that includes wooden tables.

The boudoir-sized restaurant has a past. In the Seventies, it belonged to Madame Claude, whose legal troubles ultimately prevented her from becoming a restaurateur. For the next 35 years, it was a discreet Italian restaurant that drew a mix of well-heeled locals, royalty and fashion, media and movie types. That’s not likely to change: The new owner and maitre d’ (and longtime client) Hervé de Seynes has revamped the menu and freshened up the decor, but the insidery spirit remains. Market-driven Italian favorites include a burrata that’s flown in daily and “real” carbonara (without cream) at fair prices, especially for this neighborhood. The lunch menu goes for 24 euros, or $32.

It’s last call for the Plaza Athénée, as the hotel on Avenue Montaigne is closing for partial renovation from Oct. 1 to June 1. For those in town right after Paris Fashion Week, 1,000 lots of the hotel’s furniture — including from the Patrick Jouin-designed bar — will be displayed for the public from Oct. 4 to 6 before being auctioned at Artcurial’s Hôtel Marcel-Dassault on Oct. 7 and 8.

Laure Guilbault, with contributions from Tina Isaac Lazare

Rue intérieure de la Gare Saint-Lazare, 75008
Tel.: +33-1-44-90-80-80
Hours: Daily, 7:30 a.m. to midnight

Le Perchoir,
14 Rue Crespin du Gast, 75011
Tel.: +33-1-48-06-18-48
Rooftop open daily, restaurant open Wednesday to Sunday.

43 Rue Richer, 75009
Tel.: +33-1-72-60-97-72
Hours: Monday to Saturday for dinner, Tuesday to Friday for lunch.

Le Relais Boccador
20 Rue du Boccador, 75008
Tel.: +33-1-47-23-31-98
Hours: Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner. Dinner only on Saturday and Sunday. Last seating: 11:30 p.m.

Plaza Athénée
25 Avenue Montaigne, 75008
Tel.: +33-1-53-67-66-65

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