Big Fish, Small Pond
It turned a few toques when James Beard nominee Sam Gorenstein left his glamorous hotel gigs for a ceviche shack in Miami Beach’s South of Fifth neighborhood. But the twentysomething chef couldn’t resist the chance to strike out on his own with My Ceviche, even if it meant having customer space smaller than a bathroom stall.
“People joke a food truck would be bigger, except the city doesn’t allow them,” said Gorenstein.
His takeaway concept was inspired by street stands from his native Colombia’s coast. “They’re all over the place there, so I don’t get why Miami, with all its fresh seafood, hasn’t caught on.”
He has a point, considering the region is ruled by imported branzino. Few chefs get to run wild with his cache of local, line-caught black grouper and triggerfish, not to mention reasonably priced stone crabs (when in season), thanks to his partner, George Stone Crab, a huge retailer and distributor of stone crabs.
Ceviches come with one or combinations of fish, shrimp and octopus, and six preparations, among which Gorenstein favors aji amarillo with the Peruvian staple chile in a Mexican salsa heightened by ginger and mint. A complimentary side of spiced popcorn neutralizes the tangy citrus.
Delivery is available, or picnic in South Pointe Park a few blocks away.
My Ceviche, 235 Washington Avenue, Tel.: 305-397-8710, Web: myceviche.com