Women’s Wear Daily
04.17.2014
lifestyle
lifestyle

Berlin Preview: The Scene

An eclectic mix of exhibitions, bars, stores, spirits and stats.

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Berlini Preview 2014 Hyères Satu Maaranen

An eclectic mix of exhibitions, bars, stores, spirits and stats.

HUE BET
: Two special events promise to vividly brighten up the proceedings during fashion week this season. At Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, spring’s Hyères champ Satu Maaranen will show her award-winning Garment in Landscape collection in a catwalk show sponsored by Elle Germany on July 4, while Swiss men’s wear designer Julian Zigerli is teaming up with German megaartist Katharina Grosse.

Maaranen’s nature-inspired looks take cues from classic haute couture. Megahats, gloves gone grandiose and beyond-bold bows are matched with flowing coats, trim cropped trousers and straight skirts, all staged atop platform shoes made by merging shiny dress brogues and imposing wooden soles.

Almost everything in the Finnish designer’s collection is color-drenched with broad brushstrokes — expressionistic silk screen and digital prints splash onto silk, cotton and viscose encrusted delicately with sand, sawdust and grass, which adds volume and stiffness to rippling cuffs and hems.

Maaranen has a knack for pattern recognition — she worked for Finnish textile legend Marimekko for two-and-a-half years while finishing her degree from Helsinki’s Aalto University. Her experience also includes internships with traditional Italian fabric house Erica and Belgian designer Christian Wijnants.

RELATED STORY: Berlin Preview, Ones to Watch >>


Prismatic play is also key for witty designer Zigerli. He’s returning to Berlin this summer to present a collaboration with Grosse, one of Germany’s most colorful contemporary artists. Her large-scale abstract works have livened up galleries and museums globally with their bright shades, massive shards, and undulating curves. Creating chromatic worlds, Grosse has previously used clothing in her installations — wedged in rocks and covered in dirt, then painted over with primary shades. And she wore a candy-colored Zigerli jacket to the opening of her current exhibition at Dallas’ Nasher Sculpture Center.

Zigerli’s spring collection, titled At the End of the World to the Left, finds the two color lovers teaming up for a rainbow that culminates in an off-site art-fashion presentation on July 2 at Cruise & Callas gallery in Kreuzberg. Models become human canvases, as Grosse’s sprays and splotches of paint turn into prints that enliven Zigerli’s layered sportswear cut from functional fabrics.

Julian Zigerli’s garments, known for their sweet humor and sporty chic, can also be found in Collect Showroom at Capsule, which runs July 2 and 3.

— Susan Stone

Garment in Landscape — Satu Maaranen At MBFW Berlin, Strasse des 17 Juni

At the End of the World to the Left — Julian Zigerli and Katharina Grosse
At Cruise & Callas, Köpenicker Str. 187/188, 10997 (Kreuzberg)


NEXT: 'Luxury of Fashion' >>

 

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