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Berlin Preview: Scene

Berlin is said to have more stretches of canal than Venice.

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The restaurant's interior and cuisine are both modern Chinese. Raue's aim is light, energizing fare that "lives from flavor," such as a tuna tartare starter in wasabi cucumber juice topped with wasabi tobiko and coriander cress. Four-course menus or three à la carte courses are 78 euros, or $114; a six-course menu — which he says demonstrates "what I am" — is priced at 180 euros, or $263. The large open room is outfitted with Loro Piana upholstered chairs, sofa banquettes with carved chinoiserie backs, slate walls, a complete wall of windows opening out on a vertical garden and the pièce de résistance: an almost 5-foot, 1,000-year-old Han dynasty terra-cotta horse. MA, after all, is the Chinese name for horse.

— Melissa Drier
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