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MEAT OBSESSION: Parisians call in advance and save up their euros for Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec’s famous, dry-aged wagyu côte de boeuf from Burgos, Spain. His grail per kilo is priced at 180 euros, or $221.30 at current exchange.
Le Bourdonnec’s butcher shop in the Paris suburbs of Asnières-sur-Seine has become a destination. Now he is saving his customers the journey. Earlier this year, he opened a new boutique in an early 20th-century butchery on Avenue Victor Hugo in the chic 16th arrondissement.
Its exterior and interior are chockablock with wooden panels, recalling a library, and meat is displayed in a glass case, like antiques. No counter separates the butcher from his clients.
It’s all in the family. Two of Le Bourdonnec’s five sons — Yann and Paul, who are 20 and 18, respectively — work with him. He plans to open a new butcher shop next year in Paris inspired by Tom Mylan’s The Meat Hook in Brooklyn, and add a rock ’n’ roll component to it.
“I want to rev butchery up, to make it rock,” he explains.
Speaking of revolution, Le Bourdonnec cowrote a film, slated for 2013 release, called “Steak Revolution,” in which he travels the world, visiting purveyors on the quest for the best meat.
172 Avenue Victor Hugo
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