AKRAME: “A new table by French-Algerian chef Akrame Benallal. In terms of creativity, it’s probably the most interesting table I’ve tried this year in Paris. He’s completely self-taught and has worked with some of the biggest chefs in the world, which you can see in his technique. He worked at elBulli [in Spain] and Pierre Gagnaire. One of the dishes I had, when they announced it as a deconstructed chicken taco, I thought, Here we go again, I don’t think I’ll eat it. But, oh, it was fantastic. It was minced breast of chicken with some sort of coriander foam and a sprinkling of hyper-flavorful corn dust. If you tasted any one of those apart, it wouldn’t have done much. But you get all of that in a spoon and, you know, you have the impression you’ve attained the nirvana of taco-ness. It was absolutely delicious. He changes his menu every single day. It’s absolutely insane.”
Akrame: 19 Rue Lauriston, 75016 Paris. Tel.: +33-1-40-67-11-16.
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