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Squab might be the one seemingly exotic meat that doesn’t, as they say, taste like chicken. “It has a gamier taste to it. It’s closer to a lean roast duck,” says David Waltuck, chef at haute Manhattan eatery Chanterelle. That’s why Waltuck features squab on his menu during the winter months, when “people want to eat a little heartier.” In particular, the toque recommends serving the bird rare and pairing it with portobello mushrooms, as he does in his latest cookbook, Chanterelle: The Story and Recipes of a Restaurant Classic.
PASS THE SALT
France’s fleur de sel de guérende is considered the caviar of salt, hand-harvested from the Mediterranean Sea. Other chefs prize the salt flakes off the Welsh Isle of Anglesey. But whether crafted from the seas around Europe, the Asian Pacific or mined in mountain-high deposits in Bolivia and the Himalayas, salt traps the flavor from its origin. These subtle differences give omnivores around the world a varied palate with which to experiment, whether it’s Fran Bigelow’s award-winning caramels with smoked oak salt in Seattle or popcorn with vanilla salt at Odette’s in London.
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