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WWD Week in Review 9/18/09

The week's top stories for the week ending Sept. 18, 2009.

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Marc Jacobs RTW Spring 2010

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New York Fashion Week Wraps Up

New York Fashion Week drew to a close, with several bright spots among the spring RTW collections. Marc Jacobs' collection counted among his more overtly beautiful efforts, in a fantastical Coppélia-meets-Pierrot-meets-G.I.Joe-meets-Geisha-meets-Americana-meets-Comme des Garçons kind of way. Diane von Furstenberg drew on a series of exotic wanderings for spring. Isaac Mizrahi sent out an upbeat ode to Yves Saint Laurent, stocked with all kinds of witty takes on the tuxedo. Francisco Costa's collection for Calvin Klein was a strong effort based on the house’s spring 1994 collection, the one that introduced Kate Moss as house muse. Ralph Lauren’s stated celebration of the American worker made for interesting and, at times, uncomfortable viewing, radiating as it did the designer’s earnestness while crossing over to the overly folkloric. (Click to see all the New York Fashion Week coverage.)

Gaga for Marc Jacobs

The bash V magazine and Marc Jacobs threw at Hiro after his show was of pre-recession proportions. The door was mobbed, the crowd was packed, Jacobs mingled with his famous friends and everyone was ready to party while awaiting a performance by Lady Gaga. Back-to-back parties at the Boom Boom Room included its grand opening, which drew the likes of Madonna and Jesus Luz, Steven Klein, Daphne Guinness and Jerry Seinfeld, while the Purple Magazine party boasted such guests as Chloë Sevigny and Kim Gordon of Sonic Youth, Lindsay Lohan and a mustachioed Daniel Craig. (Click to see complete party coverage, backstage beauty and Fashion Scoops.)

London Fashion Week Preview: Ones to Watch

As London Fashion Week begins, a few notable up-and-coming designers to watch include Joanna Sykes, who is making her debut on the official schedule; Tanya Ling in her first collection for Veryta; Marcus Constable, who returns under his own label; footwear designer Atalanta Weller, and Louise Goldin for Ballantyne. (Click to see the London schedule and a preview of hot spots to check out.) Meanwhile, Turkey launched its first fashion week, Istanbul Fashion Days. Looking ahead, the schedule for Milan Fashion Week has been finalized.

Uniqlo's Yanai Outlines Expansion

As if growing Fast Retailing Co. Ltd.’s sales seven-fold to $54 billion by 2020 wasn’t an ambitious enough target, company chairman and Uniqlo founder Tadashi Yanai said he’s got bigger plans: to revolutionize the way consumers buy clothes. To that end, Uniqlo, a brand known for innovations such as selling T-shirts in plastic tubes and creating a fabric that retains body heat, is going global. Yanai said Uniqlo plans to open 100 to 200 stores a year outside Japan

Beyoncé Plans Fragrance Launch for Spring

Sasha Fierce has finally succumbed to the temptations of the celebrity fragrance game: Beyoncé Knowles has signed a deal with Coty Inc. to produce her own perfume. Beyoncé’s fragrance — which will be sold in department stores globally — is scheduled for a spring launch in the Americas, followed by the rest of the world in fall 2010. The deal could be worth up to $20 million for the singer over the next three years, sources estimated. Meanwhile, Abercrombie & Fitch Co. wants to block any fragrance launch under the Sasha Fierce name, alleging that a scent with that label would infringe on its own Fierce cologne trademark.

Lauder to Close Prescriptives Division

In a long-speculated move, the Estée Lauder Cos. said it will shutter the retail distribution of its 30-year-old Prescriptives brand by Jan. 31. Prescriptives, introduced in 1979 and sold in five countries, is the first major Lauder-conceived and -built brand ever to be closed. It also is the first decisive move in managing the beauty company’s sprawling portfolio of 29 brands.

Hilfiger Mega-Flagship Arrives on Fifth Ave.

For a designer, nothing says you’ve made it quite like a flagship on Fifth Avenue and after nearly 25 years in business, Tommy Hilfiger’s 22,000-square-foot store at 681 Fifth Avenue opening today clearly conveys the message he’s arrived. “This is a pinnacle moment because everything seems to be working,” the designer said at the four-level flagship, where construction workers rushed over the weekend to put the finishing touches on the facade, dressing rooms and displays. (Click to see all the store images.) Meanwhile, big-box stores known for value are reeling in affluent consumers, according to a new study.

Study: Vuitton Scores Highest Value in Luxe

Evoking a feeling of trust among consumers is a key reason luxury brand Louis Vuitton has scored the top value, $21.12 billion in projected annual cash flow, among global, publicly held fashion players in Interbrand’s new annual report, “Best Global Brands 2009.” Fashion brands in the luxury sector — including Vuitton, ranked 16th; Gucci, 41st, with a value of $8.12 billion; Chanel, 59th, $6.04 billion; Hermès, 70th, $4.59 billion; Prada, 87th, $3.53 billion, and Armani, 89th, $3.3 billion — dominated the style portion in the brand consultancy’s top 100.

Venice Gives Tom Ford Film Thumb's Up

Tom Ford’s directorial debut, “A Single Man,” drew accolades following its premiere at the Venice Film Festival. “A thing of heartstopping beauty ... Tom Ford is the real deal,” proclaimed The Times Online. “An impressive helming debut….Ford’s largely delicate touch reps a pleasant surprise,” offered Variety. (Click to see scenes from the film and the premiere.)

WWD Back in Time: Lagerfeld, Versace and Lacroix

Two full runway shows at the Plaza hotel — featuring designs from nearly every major Parisian fashion house — weren’t enough to celebrate fall couture for the Fashion Council and Vogue in September of 1990. They teamed up to throw a party at Ian Schrager’s Paramount Hotel in honor of the Gang of Three — Gianni Versace, Karl Lagerfeld and Christian Lacroix — as well. (Click to see all the images.)

Click to see the previous WWD Week in Review (9/11/09).

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