Newcomer of the Year
Forget beginner’s luck. Technology and convenience fueled the success of two new skin care brands.
My Blend by Dr. Olivier Courtin
For Olivier Courtin, son of the late Clarins founder Jacques Courtin, it’s all in a name. Or lack thereof. When Courtin launched his new high-end skin care line My Blend by Dr. Olivier Courtin, he chose to make it a freestanding line not supported by the Clarins name. Courtin felt it was necessary for its success, as My Blend’s concept is not compatible with the consumer’s existing impression of Clarins. The line is based on the premise that not all women fit into the four traditional skin type classifications and instead features eight formulations aimed at distinct stages of a woman’s life—from oily post-adolescence (type 01) to dry maturity (type 08). The day and night creams that form the backbone of the line can be further individualized with the help of “boosters,” five liquid formulas that can be seamlessly added to the creams to address specific needs such as redness, radiance or hydration. With consumers clamoring for more customization, Courtin is certain he doesn’t need the name; he’s already got their number.
Lisa Hoffman Skin Care
Inspired by her own hectic traveling schedule with husband Dustin, Lisa Hoffman entered the beauty business a year ago to help women simplify their routines. First up was a skin care line divided into daytime and evening ranges; Hoffman then expanded into body and spa, and most recently fragrance, with three different formulas created for morning, noon and night. “I created my line so I could have a complete skin care regimen that was not only made from the finest ingredients but was also highly portable and organized, and most importantly, could move with me from day to night,” said Hoffman. After being launched exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman, Hoffman’s assortment has expanded into Fred Segal’s Apothia and internationally at Harvey Nichols in the U.K. and Colette in Paris. Everything is packaged either in single-dose ampules or conventional sizes, and prices start at $25 and rise to $150. For retailers, the line performed like a, well, star. Said Ed Burstell, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of beauty, jewelry and accessories for Bergdorf Goodman, “Lisa Hoffman represents the spirit of today’s modern woman and our customer has responded quite positively to the offering.” —M.E.
Most Innovative Ad Campaign of the Year
Who says you have to shout to be heard? These winners opted for sophisticated elegance instead—to great effect.
Estee Lauder Private Collection
There was no one better at creating an advertising fantasyland than Estée Lauder. And as senior vice president and creative director, her granddaughter Aerin Lauder has worked tirelessly behind the scenes to further promote the brand’s aspirational image. This year, though, she was the brand’s aspirational image as the face of its newest fragrance Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia. Photographed by Craig McDean, the black-and-white portrait was inspired by a Victor Skrebneski shot of her grandmother. But Private Collection represents much more than an homage: The project has also been designed to be desirous to a new generation of consumers as part of a two-tier strategy that involves separate plans for Lauder’s department store and high-end specialty store accounts. That led to the decision to cast Aerin as the face of the fragrance, marking the first time a Lauder family member has appeared in an ad for any of its projects. Said John Demsey, group president of the Estée Lauder Cos., “Aerin gives a voice to the brand that’s contemporary and modern. She’s a working young mother, she lives a glamorous life and she’s friendly with the very kind of people that her grandmother might have been friendly with if she’d been living today.” —J. B. F.
Easy, breezy and beautiful has given way to sleek, modern and sophisticated. Mass market stalwart Cover Girl gave itself a makeover this year, unveiling a streamlined new look in its advertising and much of its packaging, and signing A-list actress Drew Barrymore as both a spokesmodel and co-creative director. She joins Rihanna, Keri Russell and Queen Latifah in the brand’s lineup. Barrymore, who was highly sought after by a number of beauty companies and is reportedly earning between $1 million and $2 million in her new role, made her debut in ads for LashBlast volumizing mascara. A striking black-and-white photo of the actress (lensed by Michael Thompson) is offset by a magnified image of the mascara’s wand. Absent is copious amounts of copy and cluttered graphics. The ad was the first salvo in Cover Girl’s “See the Difference (Not the Makeup!)” campaign, which will also include a new in-store look, reformulated products and a redesigned Web site. The brand’s goal? Equally audacious: to drive home its point of difference not only between it and other mass market players, but versus prestige players, too. —J.B.F.
Most Innovative Marketer of the Year
Whether taking a cheeky approach or a chic one, these people and companies really struck a chord with consumers.
Catherine Walsh of Coty
What do you call a marketing guru who counts Sarah Jessica Parker, Jennifer Lopez and Gwen Stefani among her closest workmates? Catherine Walsh. Walsh, who is senior vice president, American Fragrances for Coty Prestige, helped kick off the trend for celebrity fragrances with Lopez’s first effort, Glow by JLo, which generated worldwide sales of $100 million in its first year, then followed that up with the smash hit Lovely Sarah Jessica Parker. She continued her streak this year with Covet, SJP’s follow-up, as well as successful launches for Calvin Klein, Gwen Stefani, Marc Jacobs and Kenneth Cole. Her winning formula? There is no formula—and that’s precisely the point. Crafting an innovative mix of both traditional and “new” media vehicles such as dedicated Web sites and e-mail blasts for each brand, Walsh has consistently delivered strong and well-received marketing campaigns. Among this year’s standouts: With licensee Kenneth Cole and rocker Jon Bon Jovi, Walsh helped launch RSVP for men, a scent that donated some of its proceeds to charities such as Habitat for Humanity and H.E.L.P-USA. —J.N.
Mike Indursky of Burt’s Bees
Taking the bull by the horns is not quite the personality trait one would attribute to most eco-friendly, natural product makers. But Mike Indursky, chief marketing officer of Burt’s Bees, is doing just that with an initiative that looks to change the playing field of natural personal care. Indursky is lobbying in Congress for a bill that would develop an industry standard for the use of the word “natural” in personal care products and require products labeled “natural” to be at least 95 percent natural, meaning they should not have parabens, synthetic preservatives, sulfates, animal products or anything with suspected potential human health risks. Indursky cites as his inspiration to regulate natural personal care the overwhelming confusion in the category. So far he has garnered the attention of other natural companies, at least one U.S. senator and a handful of government and natural product agencies, all supporting his cause. Consider him beauty’s go-to guy for the grassroots movement. —A.N.
P&G Prestige Fragrance
Don’t let its detergent and diaper brands fool you. Procter & Gamble is a formidable fixture in the prestige fragrance business with a portfolio—reported to have generated about $2.5 billion in sales last year—that includes Valentino, Escada, Hugo Boss, Lacoste and, most recently, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana. Prestige fragrance is a cluttered market, to be sure, giving P&G all the more reason to build its business the best way it knows how: based on consumer insights and research and development. P&G relies on its own team of noses and perfumery experts to work with fragrance houses to develop new technologies. For instance, based on the consumer insight that men want to refresh their fragrance during the day without having to tote around a bottle, P&G created a time-release technology for Lacoste. While some scents fall short of reflecting the ethos of the designer name attached to it, P&G hits the mark, by combining (and mining) the creativity of each fashion house with the research and methodology of its core businesses. —M.P.
Soap & Glory
Marcia Kilgore, creator of Bliss Spas, has always been known for her whimsical take on beauty (an approach that had her laughing all the way to the bank when she sold Bliss for a reported $30 million to LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 1999). Her latest effort, Soap and Glory, is no exception. Created to provide entertainment in the body wash aisle, the line takes its inspiration from the blaring headlines of Britain’s tabloid newspapers, with names like Sexy Mother Pucker for lip plumpers. First launched last year in the U.K. with a dual distribution strategy that encompasses both Harvey Nichols and Boots the Chemist, Soap & Glory hit Target shelves in September. Kilgore launched Soap & Glory Spa that same month in the U.K., a nine-stockkeeping-unit line with more advanced formulations and slightly higher price points. Overall, sales for the brand are expected to reach $15 million this year—a figure that should give Kilgore something to smile about. —J.B.F.