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Makeup artist Aaron De May used only various textures of black on otherwise paled-down faces, a look he labeled “noble,” “aristocratic” and like “Latin meets Goth.” On most models’ eyelids, for instance, De May applied a translucent black substance created from an old beauty recipe based on carbon, the chemical element he said Marlene Dietrich used. Backstage, De May lit a flame against a porcelain plate and then mixed the resulting soot with lip gloss.
At the same time, hairstylist Luigi Mureno, for Kérastase, concocted low-slung chignons with wispy strands of hair flowing from either side of models’ faces.
“It has sensuality,” he said.